Be bowled over by fine food and cosy vibes at Virat Kohli’s one8 Commune

In a concrete jungle like Mumbai, life is a headlong rush into traffic snarls and congested roads. Therefore, eating out at a place that brings you closer to nature seems like a much-needed respite from the urban drudgery.

Perhaps this is what Virat Kohli had in mind when he set up his one8 Commune restaurant in Mumbai. His latest diner—after outposts in Delhi, Pune, and Kolkata—is bathed in natural light, fresh air, and loads of greenery. And if you are a cricket fan, tucking into the former Indian cricket captain’s favourites could be an added delight. 

On a sunny winter’s morning—with as much cool weather as one can expect in early December in Mumbai—YS Life checks out this greenhouse-themed eatery at Juhu.

Charming design

It’s been barely two months since one8 Commune opened its doors to the people of Mumbai, but it is already attracting a bunch of steady patrons, who are returning to the restaurant on different occasions.

This is a test of how well the place has been received, says one8 Commune's cultural manager, Mohini Jadeja.

The restaurant, which was once (late) legendary singer Kishore Kumar’s bungalow, can seat around 130 people. Its design is charming and homey, with little rustic touches here and there.  

The indoor space has a cosy living room feel, with warm wooden tones and books for company. And there is also an inviting cave-like area with limestone walls, which take the earthy vibes a notch higher.

I pick the glasshouse space, open to the blue sky—unable to resist the possibility of a meal in an enchanting ambience in the heart of Mumbai. Wall planters, abundant greenery, and a beige colour palette are some of the artsy elements that define this al fresco-ish space called ‘Art Street’.

The corners suddenly surprise you with sculptures of Companion, the Mickey Mouse-inspired figure with ‘X-ed’ out eyes—a signature motif of New York-based artist Kaws.

Skip’s faves

one8 Commune’s cuisine is varied, aiming to please different taste buds with its Indian, Asian, and European fare.

This is Virat Kohli’s place—so the first thought that enters the mind is: are his favourites served here? Well, they are. Four of them, actually.

Mohini explains that the cricketer has been a part of the inception, design and menu of one8 Commune. He was clear that the menu should have dishes that he loves, she says.

First on my list of Kohli’s favourites was Superfood Salad, which makes for a nutty, refreshing bite with toasted cashews, sunflower seeds, a generous sprinkling of amaranth as well as mixed lettuce leaves, and cantaloupe balls with a drizzle of lemon-olive oil. 

Next in line is the creamy-textured Pearl Barley Risotto, in which the rice has been swapped with barley and mushroom pate, gently simmered and served with shaved parmesan cheese.

“Virat especially wanted it this way. He’s a fan of risotto and thought that barley would make for a healthy alternative; it’s like a cheat dish anyone will enjoy,” says Mohini.

Virat’s other fave has a cricketing term in it—Mushroom Googly Dim Sums, with a reddish tinge due to the addition of fresh beetroot puree.

Unlike the dim sums you may have tried elsewhere, this one is a thick dense bite involving three kinds of mushroom—shiitake, button and white fungus—along with cream cheese and flavoured with truffle oil.

The Avocado Tartar gets a slightly Oriental twist with a hint of ponzu soy sauce in the base, over which slices of avocado are placed and topped with mildly spiced corn-sriracha and Japanese mayonnaise.

Eclectic mix

There’s also a lot to please the non-vegetarian palate.

Start with the prawn Gambas Caliente, prepared with a base of garlic-butter emulsion, to be had with crusty bread. Or try the barbecue-style Achari Chicken.

The Chicken Railway Curry, eaten with Malabar paratha, is mild and resonates with homestyle cooking. “The dish is made with khada masala and onions, slow-cooked until they merge into the gravy,” explains Executive Chef Pawan Bisht.

You can pair the mains with a range of cocktails and mocktails. We recommend the deconstructed Picante made into a non-alcoholic beverage, on a bed of ice and cherries.

The premise running through Chef Bisht’s food seems clear—simple, comfort food that pleases the senses, with a fine-dine touch.

The fare on offer is also eclectic. So, don’t be surprised if you see gnocchi with blue cheese hobnobbing with a Kerala-style vegetable stew and the good ol’ dal khichdi served with mixed pickles from the Northeast.

If you are watching the scales, you don’t have to skip the desserts, for they are light—on the palate and in presentation.

We suggest you don’t play it safe with Crème Brûlée and instead try something different. Go for the Burnt Basques Cheesecake. Or the red-domed Kiss Me I’m Fruity—a pretty assemblage of cake, raspberry jam, cocoa nibs, and light vanilla cream. It makes for a perfect end to the repast.

There’s a lot more cooking at one8 Commune besides the food. YS Life learns that the resto-bar is going to Dubai soon. So, Dubai folks, get set for a new culinary experience!

As I dig into the cheesecake, I wonder what it would be like to sit in the glasshouse during the monsoon, watching the dark sky through the ceiling, enjoying warm Laksa soup. But that’s a story for another day.