South Indian traditions come alive at Delhi’s new canteen-style restaurant

Not too many south Indian restaurants in Delhi-NCR attempt to move away from the quintessential dosa and idli. Even if there are a handful, the items on the menu are far and few. 

With Dakshin Canteen, chef-entrepreneur Ruchira Hoon’s debut restaurant, Delhi is introduced to a canteen-style concept that celebrates the rich culinary diversity of southern India. 

Having grown up in Chennai, Hoon missed the flavours of home in Delhi. Even though she could cook and recreate those dishes, there was no place where she could get simple dishes like Mutton Curry and Dosa, or a Buhari-style Chicken 65. “And yet, have enough options to eat good wholesome vegetarian food,” she adds. 

As part Tamilian, whose family lineage is ‘borderless’, the food she was exposed to as a young child has hardly made an appearance in mainstream eateries. “That’s what I want to do with Dakshin Canteen,” she tells YS Life. 

Hoon is someone whose life revolves around food–through cooking, feeding, hosting, writing, photographing, and learning new things. 

“As much as I could channel myself into all these spheres, there was always a part of me that saw a space for myself where I could serve the food that I loved cooking, the flavours that were closest to my heart,” she admits.

Dakshin Canteen in Amar Colony, which opened its doors in December 2024, is just that.

On the platter 

A glance at the menu reveals that ‘small plates’ take centre stage. While there are some home-style staples and classic dishes with modern twists, nothing feels gimmicky. 

“There were a couple of things I was thinking of while making the menu. The idea was to remind people of the myriad flavours from across the south–that seem to be missing in the north. At the same time, it was to break the stereotypes of south Indian food,” confesses Hoon. 

Whether it’s a simple Madurai-style chicken curry or a Mangalorean ghee roast or a kuruma that so many small eateries (which love being called HOTAL’s) serve, it was all about showcasing the deliciousness that the south of the Vindhyas carry.  

“It could be a simple curry with complex flavours or snacks that are good to eat at any point of the day,” highlights Hoon.

My meal starts with a comforting coconut rasam, bringing together the tangy flavours of tomato broth with the richness of coconut milk. The appalam served alongside made for a perfect crunchy accompaniment.  

I was intrigued by the Ghee Podi Idli Fries and the sweet-spicy Inji Puli Chicken Wings on the menu. It’s hard to imagine these classic dishes served in such a creative way, but chef Hoon explains it was a natural transgression. 

“They didn’t seem forced nor did they feel like I was doing something that needed too much explanation. They sort of fit.” 

“I also realised, purely out of experience, that smaller plates means more for people to try and share and there’s just so many things people would like to open their palates to,” says Hoon. “This is why I looked at the menu, both as a consumer as well as a creator.”

She also recommends the crispy Chilli Cheese Paniyaram, which melts in the mouth.

There’s also Set Kari Dosse, a thicker dosa with toppings of your choice including ghee roast chicken, mutton kaima, mutte, and podi. And if you enjoy a home-style kothu parotta, there are a few options. The flakiness of the parotta is on point, making it an ideal pick-me-up. 

The menu also includes a mix of vegetarian and non-vegetarian curries. I went for the Kerala-style Chemmeen Manga Curry with mildly spiced prawns and raw mango in coconut milk. The prawns were juicy and the curry wasn't as thick or goopy as in many eateries. 

The Mutton Artiraichi Kozhambu, slow cooked in Arcot-style, was a revelation with its distinct housemade masala, spicy yet never overpowering the dish. 

“Don’t miss the Srilankan Bandakkaya Curry. This light fragrant curry made with onions and raw mango with okra, has my heart. There’s a secret ingredient which makes it so delicious, and its pandan leaves,” she adds. 

For seafood lovers, Dakshin Canteen is a treat. The Nandu Varuval (crab Chettinad), one of my favourites on the menu, has a thick pepper gravy that was comforting in every bite. There’s also a Srilankan-style Chilli Garlic Crab Roast and Kerala-style Meen Fry. 

Finding these options in a menu in Delhi seems a little risky, particularly with its residents being obsessed with chicken. “I think that’s an unfortunate stereotype that Delhiites carry and let me tell you it isn’t true. You would be surprised that some of our highest sellers are our prawns and our fish fry,” highlights Hoon. 

The desserts 

After a hearty meal, I couldn’t help myself from digging into its selection of desserts. While the options are few, they leave a huge impact. Who can resist a Filter Kaapi Softy, I’d say? 

Hoon shares, “One of the things I clearly told my business partners was that I wanted a softy machine for the restaurant. Softies have a cult following down south and I wanted to bring that to the table when we opened anything South Indian here.” 

“Different flavours will follow suit but Filter Kaapi Softy will always be our signature since it combines two things we love–soft serves and filter coffee,” she adds. 

They also have a Payasam Tres Leches, a crossover with Hoon's other venture, The Tres Leches Cake Shop. It's a light cake soaked in Paal Payasam and topped with ghee roasted nuts. 

The Dakshin Affogato is another option to try. “I grew up pouring coffee over ice cream and mixing it vigorously together to make a rich thick shake–the Dakshin Affogato is a homage to that,” signs off Hoon. 

Timings: 11:30 am to 11:30 pm

Price for two: Rs 1,500